Many consumers are growing in their watchfulness as to what goes in their bodies, but health can be as greatly impacted by what goes on their bodies. We already realize that chemicals in cosmetics such as skin creams can break through the skin barrier, but what about the chemicals in hair coloring? In response to recent bad press about hair dyes, many have turned to semi-permanent solutions. However, there is reason to question the safety in the substances used in these products as well. If you are among the 50% of women who color their hair, or a man who covers his gray, you might want to do more investigation into your favorite hair coloring.
Europe seems to be well ahead of the U.S. in its members' responses to potentially dangerous chemicals in cosmetics and body care products. Last year on December 1st, a ban on 22 hair dye substances issued by the European Commission, a body that drafts legislation for the European Union, took effect. These substances had been linked to bladder cancer in a 2001 University of Southern California study. Commented European Commission Vice-President Günter Verheugen, who is responsible for enterprise and industry policy, "Substances for which there is no proof that they are safe will disappear from the market. Our high safety standards do not only protect EU consumers, they also give legal certainty to the European cosmetics industry." The United States, however, has not required manufacturers to file data on ingredients or report cosmetic-related injuries.
This ban was the first concrete step taken by the EU as the result of a 2003 agreement to establish a positive list of hair dye substances which are considered safe for human health. The agreement called for the Commission to ban all permanent and non-permanent hair dyes for which industry has not submitted any safety files and those for which the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) has given a negative opinion.
In a public consultation the Commission had asked cosmetics producers to provide safety files for their substances, based on scientific expertise, which proved that a substance did not pose a health risk for consumers. Though the industry submitted 115 files on hair dye substances for evaluation by the scientific committee, such safety files for the 22 banned hair dye ingredients were not submitted. The committee also recommended an overall safety assessment strategy for hair dyes, in addition to testing the ingredients for their potential genotoxicity or mutagenicity. The banned substances include:
* 6-Methoxy-2,3-Pyridinediamine and its HCl salt
* 2,3-Naphthalenediol
* 2,4-Diaminodiphenylamine
* 2,6-Bis(2-Hydroxyethoxy)-3,5-Pyridinediamine
* 2-Methoxymethyl-p-Aminophenol
* 4,5-Diamino-1-Methylpyrazole and its HCl salt
* 4,5-Diamino-1-((4-Chlorophenyl)Methyl)-1H-Pyrazole Sulfate
* 4-Chloro-2-Aminophenol
* 4-Hydroxyindole
* 4-Methoxytoluene-2,5-Diamine and its HCl salt
* 5-Amino-4-Fluoro-2-Methylphenol Sulfate
* N,N-Diethyl-m-Aminophenol
* N,N-Dimethyl-2,6-Pyridinediamine and its HCl salt
* N-Cyclopentyl-m-Aminophenol
* N-(2-Methoxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine and its HCl salt
* 2,4-Diamino-5-methylphenetol and its HCl salt
* 1,7-Naphthalenediol
* 3,4-Diaminobenzoic acid
* 2-Aminomethyl-p-aminophenol and its HCl salt
* Solvent Red 1 (CI 12150)
* Acid Orange 24 (CI 20170)
* Acid Red 73 (CI 27290)
The 2001 USC study was not a clinical cancer trial but it did identify the highest risk groups for susceptibility for bladder cancer due to hair dyes. These include women who have used permanent dyes once a month or more for a year or longer and those who have worked as hair dressers or barbers for ten years or more. If the dyes were used for 15 years or more, the risk was tripled. The darkness of the dye also increased the risk.
There have been conflicting results from such studies, but bladder cancer involves some complicated issues. Women flush out carcinogenic ingredients from their bodies at differing rates, and those with slower rates have a higher risk of contracting bladder cancer. About half of the Caucasians in the U.S. have slow-flushing genes. Also, bladder cancer takes more time to show up following exposure to a carcinogen, usually about 30 years as opposed to 15 to 20 years for most cancers.
When the FDA learned that rats fed the coal tars used in dark hair dyes contracted cancer, they asked for warning labels to be placed on dye packages. Instead, the industry decided to substitute other chemicals for the coal tars. Researchers doubt that the petroleum-derived chemicals are any safer, however. What's more, the National Cancer Institute has discovered a connection between hair dyes, especially dark ones, and the group of cancers that impact blood and lymph nodes, such as non-Hodgkin's lymphoma and multiple myeloma. More studies are looking at these connections, since a connection does not in any way prove causality.
The most problematic hair dye ingredient is a family of chemicals called Arylamines. Arylamines are a known risk factor for bladder cancer and have been found to cause cancer in experimental animals. One of these is p-phenylenediamine (PPD) which is listed on the box of even non-permanent "natural" products. It is an important ingredient in hair coloring because it lasts through many washings and perming is possible with it. PPD hair dyes usually come packaged as 2 bottles, one containing the PPD dye preparation and the other containing the developer or oxidizer. PPD is a colorless substance that requires oxygen for it to become colored. It is this intermediate, partially oxidized state that may cause allergy in sensitive individuals. Fully oxidized PPD is not a sensitizer, so individuals with PPD allergy can wear wigs or fur coats dyed with PPD safely.
Another factor involves the mixing of hydrogen peroxide with ammonia. Research has found that this combination may create potentially carcinogenic chemicals that don't normally exist in the two liquids prior to mixing them together.
A third factor is that the darker dyes are more challenging as they contain greater levels of chemicals. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) stated that skin contact with PPD should be prevented in order to avoid the allergic reactions, and indeed, the FDA has NOT approved its use for direct skin application. This is an oxymoron, though, as it is next to impossible to avoid contact with the skin when applying hair color.
While carcinogenic evidence might be unconvincing at this time, one must not overlook the dangers in allergic reactions. We tend to dismiss allergies as something we can deal with, but they can be deadly in many ways. The most common allergic reactions to hair dye chemicals are dermatitis of the eyes, ears, scalp and face, which may include a rash, extreme swelling and a severe burning sensation on the scalp. More severe reactions include cross-sensitization and in rare cases, death. Cross-sensitization means that it not only makes you sensitive to PPD but you become responsive to all of its chemical cousins. This includes most textile dyes, pen ink, gasoline, oil, food dyes, medication dyes, preservatives like Parabens, and some drugs (all caine drugs such as Benzocaine and Novacaine), Sulfonamides, sulfones, sulfa drugs, and Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA).
One last cross-reactor is fragrance, since so many of these contain related chemicals. Just because a person does not seem to have a reaction after using a product several times does not guarantee cross-sensitization will not occur after the next usage. In fact, it might not occur until the 25th time the product is used. The only way to use such products without worrying about an allergic reaction is to do the patch test every time one colors their hair, at least 72 hours in advance. Not many people actually do this, and it would be very difficult for a salon to do so.
Basically, about 400 out of the 456 hair colors ranked in the Skin Deep cosmetics database of the Environmental Working Group are considered high hazard, which means they contain toxic ingredients linked to cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity, neurotoxicity, immunotoxicity, organ toxicity, in addition to the allergic problems already discussed.
The safe alternatives for hair coloring can be categorized as safer and safest. The industry has taken out some of the chemicals by producing semi-permanent coloring. Still, as previously mentioned, these products usually contain p-phenylenediamine, hydrogen peroxide and resorcinol. Although the amount of chemicals is of a lesser degree and may be less hazardous, there is still no evidence to back this up. Since the darker the hair coloring, the more problematic, it is also safer to go blonde or use highlighting only. Whatever is used, it has been recommended to drink a liter of water afterward to help flush out the toxins.
There is a safer alternative that so far produces no health concerns. One can use vegetable-based rinses which act by coating the hair shaft with botanical extracts such as blackberry, boysenberry, licorice root, chaparral, nettle, red sorrel, black walnut and other color pigments. These substances do not penetrate the hair shaft, plus they give the hair more shine and make it feel thicker and fuller. The coating action may also aid in protecting the hair from environmental elements such as sun, salt, chlorine and assorted pollutants. Safety tests have found that these rinses contain the least amount of synthetic chemicals of any hair dyes. The down side is that the effect is short-lived, lasting only a few weeks.
Safer alternatives to ammonia and peroxide are being developed. One company's organic and mineral research laboratory has found a way of making peroxide from avocado oil and it is far less irritating to the skin. They have also discovered an alternative to ammonia. Derived from coconut oil, it isn't irritating and has no nasty smell. Look for products that are ammonia and peroxide-free and use vegetable-based dyes. A search on the web for "natural hair colorings" should turn up a few good leads. Two examples are Planet Organic and Aveda. Some of these companies state that their formulas provide longer lasting color than the older vegetable rinses.
Many people have tried henna as a solution. Henna's effect lasts longer than a vegetable rinse and adds a wonderful shine, highlights and bounce to the hair. Henna products, which are gluten-free and animal-cruelty-free, are not always a red color, but all henna contains and imparts a little red. Today this natural dye comes in a wide array of shades, not just red, but will not lighten hair. Henna enhances your natural color rather than totally covering it, which allows some of your natural highlights to come through. The coating and sealing advantages mentioned above are inherent with henna.
On a related issue, the consumer still needs to be careful when selecting henna products, at least in regard to henna tattoos. Recently, PPD received bad press when it was used to darken henna tattoos and caused numerous disfiguring scars. The FDA states that this "black henna" may contain the "coal tar" color p-phenylenediamine.
As an alternative to henna, one can create a non-toxic infusion by boiling certain herbs in water and then cooling and straining prior to using the rinse. Other rinses can be derived from many ingredients easily found in most kitchen pantries (http://www.ewg.org/node/22586) .
For Brunette shades, rinse hair with one of these suggestions:
* The cooled water left after boiling unpeeled potatoes
* Teas made from rosemary, sage, raspberry leaves, parsley, or catnip
* Black coffee or black tea
* An infusion of tea, walnuts and coffee
* An infusion of apple cider vinegar, rosemary and coffee
For Blonde shades, rinse hair with:
* Infusions or teas made from Saffron, Turmeric, Calendula (marigold), Mullein
* An infusion of Avena Sativa (oat straw), Licorice Root and Saffron
* Chamomile tea
* Water from boiling chopped rhubarb in water, cooling, and straining
For red shades, rinse hair with:
* Cool, strong black coffee
* Teas made from rosehips, red hibiscus, calendula or saffron
For gray shades, rinse hair with:
* A Hollyhock infusion or Betony rinse to remove the yellow from gray hair.
When it comes to cosmetics and safety, the consumer must keep in mind that there is no U.S. governmental agency regulating products in this category. The FDA can only make recommendations about unsafe chemicals; it is up to the cosmetic companies themselves to do the research into an ingredient's safety or potential dangers. Consumers can draw their own conclusions, but when one looks at Europe and other countries to see what is regulated and compares this list to the list of ingredients on the packages on our drug store shelves, it is cause for concern. The discrepancy makes it hard to trust the industry.
As always, it is up to you, the consumer, to do the research and to become responsible for your own health, in regard to what goes on your body in addition to what goes in it.
Related resources:
NIOSH, (www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0495.html)
(www.dermnetnz.org/dna.acd/ppd.html)
FDA, (www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-tatt.html)
(www.hennapage.com/henna/ppd/ppdmed.html)
(www.ewg.org) and (www.ewg.org/reports/skindeep/)
Recipes for hair infusions and rinses - Geocities/Heartland/Prairie, (www.longlocks.com) and Vegfamily
About the author:
Cathy Sherman is a freelance writer with a major interest in natural health and in encouraging others to take responsibility for their health. She can be reached through www.devardoc.com.
Showing posts with label hair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hair. Show all posts
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Henna for Hair
So right now I am dyeing my hair with all natural Henna. I used to always dye my hair years ago with whatever color I liked at the time and whatever was the cheapest box without thinking twice about the ingredients.
It turns out ALL the hair dye I used is FULL of harmful synthetic chemicals. So, I haven't dyed my hair in a long time with any of them. Check my post above for an interesting article about the dangers of all those popular hair dyes.
Below is information from the very informative website,
Henna for Hair(www.hennaforhair.com)
The site is full of information ranging from the history of Henna to it's uses and even a free PDF giving directions and tips for applying it. I have learned so much and recommend that everyone tries it! I am excited to see my results!
What is Neutral Henna?
Neutral henna, a green powder that smells like freshly cut grass, is neither henna nor neutral. It is Cassia obovata. Cassia obovata contains anthraquinones, particuarly Chrysophanic acid, a remarkable anti-fungal, anti-microbial and anti-bacterial. Cassia obovata has a golden dye molecule that will stain dull blonde and gray hair yellow. It will help damaged hair, make hair full, glossy, healthy.
Learn more about Cassia Obovata at:
http://www.hennaforhair.com/faq/cassiaobovata.html
What is Red Henna?
Red henna, a green powder that smells like hay, is Lawsonia inermis, commonly known as henna. The leaves of the henna plant have a red-orange dye molecule, Lawsone, a napthaquinone. Henna will stain your hair red-orange; but this stain is translucent and will combine with your natural color. Body art quality henna has a much higher dye content than the henna usually sold for hair. Henna is the best hair conditioner of all. It will make your hair heavy, thick and silky.
Learn more about henna at http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/growing/
What is Black Henna?
Black henna, a green powder that smells like frozen peas, is neither black nor henna. It is indigo, Indigofera tinctoria.
Learn more about Indigo at http://www.indigopage.com
What kinds of henna are there?
Just Lawsonia inermis. This is the only plant that is actually “real henna” So how did this get so confusing?
Learn about the history of henna for hair: http://www.hennaforhair.com/history/
Then what is Lawsonia alba? ...Lawsonia spinoza/spinosa?
Lawsonia alba and Lawsonia spinoza are misleading older names for Lawsonia Inermis. When henna is a small and immature plant, it has low dye content and is spineless; when mature, it develops spines and higher dye content. Henna plants undergo this change when they are 3 years old. When western botanists saw juvenile and mature henna plants, they thought they were seeing two species, and gave them different botanical names. Lawsonia also has different colors of flowers. The plants with white flowers are sometimes called var. alba, but they are used for dye as are the plants with yellow, pink and red flowers. Learn more about henna flowers HERE: http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/growing/flower.html . You can see henna spines HERE: http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/growing/ .
Can you get different colors from different parts of the henna plant?
Only henna leaves have dye, and the highest content is in the leaf petiole. There is no dye in the bark, twigs, or rootstock of Lawsonia inermis, and certainly not different colors such as black. The roots of henna are never harvested for dye, as henna is a small tree that is kept in production for many years. Though henna is grown in many different countries, the henna dye molecule is always the same red orange. The leaf’s dye content differs according to climate and soil conditions, so the dye saturation may differ, but henna is not black in one country and red in another country.
Learn more about how henna is grown and processed:
http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/geography/
http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/geography/indiahenna.html
http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/growing/Pakistan/
Then what are Brown, Blonde, and all of those other colors of Henna?
Some Blonde, Brown, Auburn, Mahogany, and other “shades” of henna are mixes of amla, indigo, walnut, rhubarb, and Lawsonia, with other plant or synthetic dyes added, and may have metallic salts added. Many of these products have no henna whatsoever and are chemical dyes. Some commercial brands that claim to be 100% natural may include a bottle of “developer”; beware! This is a completely bogus addition, as far as henna itself is concerned and is the biggest indicator that your product is NOT even close to being 100% pure henna! The labeling on these products is often misleading, inaccurate, false, or entirely missing. The quality is often very poor.
Learn more about what's in henna packaged for hair: http://www.hennaforhair.com/science/whatsinit.html
Learn more about the wide range of hair colors with you can achieve by mixing your own natural dyes: http://www.hennaforhair.com/mixes/
Will using “blonde” henna change my brown hair to blonde?
Absolutely not. A “boxed” hair color will lighten your hair about 2 shades depending on the brand and strength. Those of you brunettes out there that have tried to go blonde with a boxed drugstore hair color are probably familiar with the brassy orange it will give you when the developer does not have the strength to lighten properly! In order to lighten hair’s natural color more than 2 shades or so, it must first be bleached, which cannot be done with pure plant products. You must use bleach and peroxide developer mix. If you have a chemical color that is extremely dark and want to remove it your hairdresser may recommend a color “stripper”. These are effective but very hard on the hair. There are several on the market (one such product is “effesol”) These must be used with extreme care on over processed hair and aren’t recommended at all on permed or chemically straightened hair. This is a strong product and should really be used by a professional to be done properly and with the least damage.
Is henna permanent? Does henna fade out?
Even the most “Permanent” hair products are not truly permanent. Once the henna’s dye has oxidized and reached its final shades, the color is permanently impregnated into the strand. Shampooing, chlorine, blow-drying, will all cause some type of degradation. Because there is a single-compound natural dye in henna, it is far less likely to go brassy or bronze like multiple-compound synthetic dyes, which will degrade and change color after a shorter period of time, and do not bond to the hair in the same way.
As with some chemical dyes, repeated applications of true henna or henna mixes develop a richer, deeper color with each succeeding application. Think of a teaspoonful of coffee in a white cup. It will look very light brown. Add 10 more teaspoonfuls and it looks like dark brown, fill the cup to the top and it looks like “black” coffee. Each application coats the last, changing the depth and bounce of the light wavelengths off your hair and giving the appearance of progressively deeper richer color each time. If you only henna your hair once, it may lighten a few shades from its peak color, but the henna’s essential color will remain until it grows out and is cut off unless it is stripped out with a chemical process.
What is Amla?
Amla is the fruit of the emblica officinalis tree, which is dried and processed for hair and skin products. Amla paste is used as an exfoliating astringent facial scrub, and in conjunction with indigo for adding gloss and curl to black hair.
For more information on Amla, see: http://www.hennaforhair.com/faq/amla/
My hairdresser tells me that henna isn’t safe / bad for my hair / needs to be done by an expert.
No such thing. This may be for several factual or speculative reasons, such as:
1) Some brands of henna contain metallic compounds that react with the ammonia activator in synthetic hair dyes. These reactions yield disasters like frog butt green hair, fried and brittle hair, and in some rare cases, the combination of metals and a freshly done chemical job might melt the hair off your head. Many henna hair dye producers do NOT provide accurate and complete labeling on their products. Other producers lie about what’s in their product, or do not know what they’re selling. If you have dyed your hair, use only body art quality from a reputable source to be sure you won’t get frog butt green fried hair!
2) Henna is not bad for your hair; it is a natural colorant and strengthener, and has all sorts of other benefits such as the reduction of dandruff, elimination of ringworm and head lice.
3) Many people feel that hairdressers are anti-henna, or that they won’t use henna due to a higher cost of materials. Chemical colors aren't really cheaper than doing henna, or always more time effective. Granted, some people can slap a 1-color process on and be out in 45 min. But many people are at the salon for as long or longer than a henna application would take. The products needed to do a chemical color are actually in most cases more expensive than what you need to do henna.
It's not that hairdressers are necessarily "anti-henna". They are mostly just uneducated in the use of it. Please keep in mind that if you frequent this site and have hennaed your hair you probably know much more about this subject than you hairdresser does! A lot of factors go into that. First off, most aren't trained in how it works, and many only know what they are taught about "beauty supply henna" which is indeed a chemical and CANNOT be mixed with real henna due to reactions from metallic salts used in the "fake" henna. When you think metallic salts, think of a range of products including Grecian Formula, we call them progressive colors. They learn to be scared of it based on info like that, and they well should be, as in the world of beauty supply products that is the type of henna product that they still see most often, and the type that will cause the most adverse reactions.
Beauticians are trained in color in a way that you assess people’s individual coloring and try to steer them the right way color wise. Every person is not meant to be a redhead; it's actually the hardest color to wear successfully. Your client may want henna; she may love the red hair. But it isn't the best color choice for her. And we are trained to suggest the best color option for the clients based on their own natural personal coloring. And we have to try and guarantee a result, or at least a fairly accurate result range. Henna, even if you know how to do it properly has such a wide result range that that in itself makes it a hard choice in a professional setting. And as a hairdresser it is very hard to believe people when they tell you what has been done to their hair. Most just know that they have color, but don't know what kind, can't remember when etc., and that makes it risky to offer henna due to possible chemical reactions.
4) Anybody can henna their hair, its not difficult! As long as you pay attention, there is no need to call in an expert. It is time consuming, yes, but not difficult in any technical aspect.
The goal of Henna for Hair is to explore, research, and understand natural hair dyes so people can achieve a wide color range with predicable results. People in North Africa, the Middle East and South Asia have been doing this for centuries, but the mixes were unknown in the west, and often family secrets. Henna, indigo, and cassia are ecologically sound crops for small land holders in marginal farming areas, and if the market for these products increases, it will benefit family farms and soils, as well as preserving our own health.
Will henna make my hair fall out?
Absolutely not. If you previously had light blonde hair, and then hennaed it to a richer, darker color, you will definitely notice shedding hairs, but only because of the darker color and not because of any change stemming from the henna. Everyone sheds approx. 150 hairs per day. And you may loosen many more hairs while completing the process. These are just hairs that would have loosened into your hairbrush or shower drain. But henna cannot cause additional healthy hair to fall out.
On the other hand, you may actually shed somewhat less after hennaeing your hair several times. Lawsonia inermis contains tannin known as hennotannic acid. Tannins are slightly astringent and their use will tighten the surface of the scalp and hair follicles, strengthening the follicles’ grasp on each hair. Henna also penetrates the hair shaft, strengthens it, smooths the cuticle, thickens the hair, making your hair more resistant to breakage.
I heard that the FDA has regulations that make the importation of henna illegal. Is this true?
No, this is not true. The Food & Drug Administration has rules about products imported into the United States if these products would be used on hair, skin, or in foods and drugs. Henna is a plant material; as a natural product, it falls into a specific area regarding importation regulations.
True henna is considered to be so safe when used on hair, that it is certified as being exempt from FDA regulations, provided that it is intended for use solely as a hair coloring agent, follows proper labeling procedures, and conforms to requirements regarding adulterants and other incidental components (see Title 21: Food and Drugs
PART 73—LISTING OF COLOR ADDITIVES EXEMPT FROM CERTIFICATION
Subpart C—Cosmetics § 73.2190 Henna. ).
It turns out ALL the hair dye I used is FULL of harmful synthetic chemicals. So, I haven't dyed my hair in a long time with any of them. Check my post above for an interesting article about the dangers of all those popular hair dyes.
Below is information from the very informative website,
Henna for Hair(www.hennaforhair.com)
The site is full of information ranging from the history of Henna to it's uses and even a free PDF giving directions and tips for applying it. I have learned so much and recommend that everyone tries it! I am excited to see my results!
What is Neutral Henna?
Neutral henna, a green powder that smells like freshly cut grass, is neither henna nor neutral. It is Cassia obovata. Cassia obovata contains anthraquinones, particuarly Chrysophanic acid, a remarkable anti-fungal, anti-microbial and anti-bacterial. Cassia obovata has a golden dye molecule that will stain dull blonde and gray hair yellow. It will help damaged hair, make hair full, glossy, healthy.
Learn more about Cassia Obovata at:
http://www.hennaforhair.com/faq/cassiaobovata.html
What is Red Henna?
Red henna, a green powder that smells like hay, is Lawsonia inermis, commonly known as henna. The leaves of the henna plant have a red-orange dye molecule, Lawsone, a napthaquinone. Henna will stain your hair red-orange; but this stain is translucent and will combine with your natural color. Body art quality henna has a much higher dye content than the henna usually sold for hair. Henna is the best hair conditioner of all. It will make your hair heavy, thick and silky.
Learn more about henna at http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/growing/
What is Black Henna?
Black henna, a green powder that smells like frozen peas, is neither black nor henna. It is indigo, Indigofera tinctoria.
Learn more about Indigo at http://www.indigopage.com
What kinds of henna are there?
Just Lawsonia inermis. This is the only plant that is actually “real henna” So how did this get so confusing?
Learn about the history of henna for hair: http://www.hennaforhair.com/history/
Then what is Lawsonia alba? ...Lawsonia spinoza/spinosa?
Lawsonia alba and Lawsonia spinoza are misleading older names for Lawsonia Inermis. When henna is a small and immature plant, it has low dye content and is spineless; when mature, it develops spines and higher dye content. Henna plants undergo this change when they are 3 years old. When western botanists saw juvenile and mature henna plants, they thought they were seeing two species, and gave them different botanical names. Lawsonia also has different colors of flowers. The plants with white flowers are sometimes called var. alba, but they are used for dye as are the plants with yellow, pink and red flowers. Learn more about henna flowers HERE: http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/growing/flower.html . You can see henna spines HERE: http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/growing/ .
Can you get different colors from different parts of the henna plant?
Only henna leaves have dye, and the highest content is in the leaf petiole. There is no dye in the bark, twigs, or rootstock of Lawsonia inermis, and certainly not different colors such as black. The roots of henna are never harvested for dye, as henna is a small tree that is kept in production for many years. Though henna is grown in many different countries, the henna dye molecule is always the same red orange. The leaf’s dye content differs according to climate and soil conditions, so the dye saturation may differ, but henna is not black in one country and red in another country.
Learn more about how henna is grown and processed:
http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/geography/
http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/geography/indiahenna.html
http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/growing/Pakistan/
Then what are Brown, Blonde, and all of those other colors of Henna?
Some Blonde, Brown, Auburn, Mahogany, and other “shades” of henna are mixes of amla, indigo, walnut, rhubarb, and Lawsonia, with other plant or synthetic dyes added, and may have metallic salts added. Many of these products have no henna whatsoever and are chemical dyes. Some commercial brands that claim to be 100% natural may include a bottle of “developer”; beware! This is a completely bogus addition, as far as henna itself is concerned and is the biggest indicator that your product is NOT even close to being 100% pure henna! The labeling on these products is often misleading, inaccurate, false, or entirely missing. The quality is often very poor.
Learn more about what's in henna packaged for hair: http://www.hennaforhair.com/science/whatsinit.html
Learn more about the wide range of hair colors with you can achieve by mixing your own natural dyes: http://www.hennaforhair.com/mixes/
Will using “blonde” henna change my brown hair to blonde?
Absolutely not. A “boxed” hair color will lighten your hair about 2 shades depending on the brand and strength. Those of you brunettes out there that have tried to go blonde with a boxed drugstore hair color are probably familiar with the brassy orange it will give you when the developer does not have the strength to lighten properly! In order to lighten hair’s natural color more than 2 shades or so, it must first be bleached, which cannot be done with pure plant products. You must use bleach and peroxide developer mix. If you have a chemical color that is extremely dark and want to remove it your hairdresser may recommend a color “stripper”. These are effective but very hard on the hair. There are several on the market (one such product is “effesol”) These must be used with extreme care on over processed hair and aren’t recommended at all on permed or chemically straightened hair. This is a strong product and should really be used by a professional to be done properly and with the least damage.
Is henna permanent? Does henna fade out?
Even the most “Permanent” hair products are not truly permanent. Once the henna’s dye has oxidized and reached its final shades, the color is permanently impregnated into the strand. Shampooing, chlorine, blow-drying, will all cause some type of degradation. Because there is a single-compound natural dye in henna, it is far less likely to go brassy or bronze like multiple-compound synthetic dyes, which will degrade and change color after a shorter period of time, and do not bond to the hair in the same way.
As with some chemical dyes, repeated applications of true henna or henna mixes develop a richer, deeper color with each succeeding application. Think of a teaspoonful of coffee in a white cup. It will look very light brown. Add 10 more teaspoonfuls and it looks like dark brown, fill the cup to the top and it looks like “black” coffee. Each application coats the last, changing the depth and bounce of the light wavelengths off your hair and giving the appearance of progressively deeper richer color each time. If you only henna your hair once, it may lighten a few shades from its peak color, but the henna’s essential color will remain until it grows out and is cut off unless it is stripped out with a chemical process.
What is Amla?
Amla is the fruit of the emblica officinalis tree, which is dried and processed for hair and skin products. Amla paste is used as an exfoliating astringent facial scrub, and in conjunction with indigo for adding gloss and curl to black hair.
For more information on Amla, see: http://www.hennaforhair.com/faq/amla/
My hairdresser tells me that henna isn’t safe / bad for my hair / needs to be done by an expert.
No such thing. This may be for several factual or speculative reasons, such as:
1) Some brands of henna contain metallic compounds that react with the ammonia activator in synthetic hair dyes. These reactions yield disasters like frog butt green hair, fried and brittle hair, and in some rare cases, the combination of metals and a freshly done chemical job might melt the hair off your head. Many henna hair dye producers do NOT provide accurate and complete labeling on their products. Other producers lie about what’s in their product, or do not know what they’re selling. If you have dyed your hair, use only body art quality from a reputable source to be sure you won’t get frog butt green fried hair!
2) Henna is not bad for your hair; it is a natural colorant and strengthener, and has all sorts of other benefits such as the reduction of dandruff, elimination of ringworm and head lice.
3) Many people feel that hairdressers are anti-henna, or that they won’t use henna due to a higher cost of materials. Chemical colors aren't really cheaper than doing henna, or always more time effective. Granted, some people can slap a 1-color process on and be out in 45 min. But many people are at the salon for as long or longer than a henna application would take. The products needed to do a chemical color are actually in most cases more expensive than what you need to do henna.
It's not that hairdressers are necessarily "anti-henna". They are mostly just uneducated in the use of it. Please keep in mind that if you frequent this site and have hennaed your hair you probably know much more about this subject than you hairdresser does! A lot of factors go into that. First off, most aren't trained in how it works, and many only know what they are taught about "beauty supply henna" which is indeed a chemical and CANNOT be mixed with real henna due to reactions from metallic salts used in the "fake" henna. When you think metallic salts, think of a range of products including Grecian Formula, we call them progressive colors. They learn to be scared of it based on info like that, and they well should be, as in the world of beauty supply products that is the type of henna product that they still see most often, and the type that will cause the most adverse reactions.
Beauticians are trained in color in a way that you assess people’s individual coloring and try to steer them the right way color wise. Every person is not meant to be a redhead; it's actually the hardest color to wear successfully. Your client may want henna; she may love the red hair. But it isn't the best color choice for her. And we are trained to suggest the best color option for the clients based on their own natural personal coloring. And we have to try and guarantee a result, or at least a fairly accurate result range. Henna, even if you know how to do it properly has such a wide result range that that in itself makes it a hard choice in a professional setting. And as a hairdresser it is very hard to believe people when they tell you what has been done to their hair. Most just know that they have color, but don't know what kind, can't remember when etc., and that makes it risky to offer henna due to possible chemical reactions.
4) Anybody can henna their hair, its not difficult! As long as you pay attention, there is no need to call in an expert. It is time consuming, yes, but not difficult in any technical aspect.
The goal of Henna for Hair is to explore, research, and understand natural hair dyes so people can achieve a wide color range with predicable results. People in North Africa, the Middle East and South Asia have been doing this for centuries, but the mixes were unknown in the west, and often family secrets. Henna, indigo, and cassia are ecologically sound crops for small land holders in marginal farming areas, and if the market for these products increases, it will benefit family farms and soils, as well as preserving our own health.
Will henna make my hair fall out?
Absolutely not. If you previously had light blonde hair, and then hennaed it to a richer, darker color, you will definitely notice shedding hairs, but only because of the darker color and not because of any change stemming from the henna. Everyone sheds approx. 150 hairs per day. And you may loosen many more hairs while completing the process. These are just hairs that would have loosened into your hairbrush or shower drain. But henna cannot cause additional healthy hair to fall out.
On the other hand, you may actually shed somewhat less after hennaeing your hair several times. Lawsonia inermis contains tannin known as hennotannic acid. Tannins are slightly astringent and their use will tighten the surface of the scalp and hair follicles, strengthening the follicles’ grasp on each hair. Henna also penetrates the hair shaft, strengthens it, smooths the cuticle, thickens the hair, making your hair more resistant to breakage.
I heard that the FDA has regulations that make the importation of henna illegal. Is this true?
No, this is not true. The Food & Drug Administration has rules about products imported into the United States if these products would be used on hair, skin, or in foods and drugs. Henna is a plant material; as a natural product, it falls into a specific area regarding importation regulations.
True henna is considered to be so safe when used on hair, that it is certified as being exempt from FDA regulations, provided that it is intended for use solely as a hair coloring agent, follows proper labeling procedures, and conforms to requirements regarding adulterants and other incidental components (see Title 21: Food and Drugs
PART 73—LISTING OF COLOR ADDITIVES EXEMPT FROM CERTIFICATION
Subpart C—Cosmetics § 73.2190 Henna. ).
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